Getting Started on the Bike
By Jason Jacobs
For most people, deciding to get into the sport of triathlons or cycling is usually fairly easy as most do it for a variety of personal reasons. However, when the time comes to look into purchasing a new bike there are many things to consider and think about.
For a first time buyer this can be very intimidating and expensive process, as lets face it, bicycles just aren't cheap anymore. Out of the three disciplines in a triathlon, cycling is by far the most expensive aspect of the sport and although nearly everyone can ride a bike, some choose to do it on an $800 dollar bike while others spend several thousand dollars on their dream machine. The most common question I've heard from people starting out is, "What should I buy?"
Before I get started, in this article I'll go over some terms such as bike geometry, bottom bracket and top tube. You might be asking, What are these? Below is a diagram that will help guide you through the talk of bike fitting and bike measurements in general.
Figure 1: Bike frame tube description
For road riding, there are two main options - a road bicycle or a triathlon/time trial bicycle. The main differences between these two bikes are frame geometry and seat position. A road bike's frame geometry puts the rider in a more upright and relaxed position while the triathlon/time trial bike puts a rider in an aggressive forward position that minimizes the rider's front surface area while in the bike's aerobars. A road bike's seat position has the rider's hips located slightly behind the bottom bracket of the bike (where the main crank is located) while a triathlon bike's seat position has the rider's hips located either above or slightly in front of the bottom bracket. Again, this is done to put a rider in a more aggressive, aerodynamic position and to engage the quadriceps more to help with transitioning from cycling to running in a triathlon.
The angles that the top tube and seat tube are set up relative to a straight line from the seat to the handlebars determines how aggressive a rider will be on the bike. For beginner cyclists and triathletes this should be something comfortable that places them in a more upright position. The steeper the angle of the top tube the more aerodynamic your position is but the less comfortable you are and less stable the bike handles. It does take time to build a tolerance to an aerodynamic position but for beginners this is NOT something to be worried about. Most local bike shops will let you ride around on the bike to feel it out while some online dealers (such as competitivecyclist.com) have a program that will allow you to test ride different bikes for a week at a time.
The bike frame material is another decision to make and there are plenty of options out there: steel, aluminum, titanium and carbon. Titanium and carbon are found on more expensive racing bikes, and while it is nice, it is definitely not needed. Also, it is sometimes, based on the rider's physical build, the wrong frame material. Aluminum is the best material out there for both performance and cost. Riding on an aluminum bike feels close to riding on a carbon frame but at a fraction of the cost. Again, the frame material is your choice and one that should be made with how you feel riding on the bike.
So regardless of whether you choose to buy from a local shop or online, an aluminum or carbon bike frame, road or tri bike, please remember: The goal is to purchase a bike that you feel comfortable riding and not just an expensive racing bike that hurts your butt, shoulders and back after riding for a half hour!
Next, the gears (or components as they are sometimes called) of a bike are the other major thing to think about. For people just starting out, I recommend that they go with a triple crankset on their bike. Riding with a triple crankset will make riding around on hills a lot easier and will ease the strain of riding than what you would experience with a double crankset. If you live in an area without any hills (lucky you) or if you have previous outdoor riding experience, you can get away with choosing a double.
Figure 2 - Triple versus Double Crankset
After the crankset, the rear cassette is the next thing to decide on. There are a plethora of choices out there and you'll hear numbers like 11x23, 12x25 and 12x27 tossed around in a local bike shop. What these numbers mean are the smallest and largest cogs on the rear cassette, which is located on the rear wheel and is where the chain runs over from the main crankset. Most bikes produced now are equipped with 10-speeds, meaning that there are 10 cogs in the rear cassette to choose from while riding. The help give a visual of what I'm taking about, below is a picture of an 11x23 rear cassette.
Figure 3 - Rear Cassette
From the picture, the smallest cog has 11 teeth (hardest to pedal) while the largest cog has 23 teeth (easiest to pedal). As a general rule of them each cog in the cassette usually increases or decreases by 1 or 2 cogs per either upshift (going to an easier gear) or downship (going to a harder gear). For most beginners, a 12x25 rear cassette is standard on most road bikes and should be sufficient for your everyday riding and training. As you further develop as a cyclist or triathlete you might want to experiment with different cassettes to find the right one or buy cassettes specifically for racing but for now, it is smart to stick with what comes standard on your new bike.
Finally, now that we've gotten through the basic technical information the next major hurdle is price. Let's face it, buying a bicycle is not cheap and even a starter road bike will set you back close to $1000. For many, this can be a deal breaker but it doesn't have to be. Many local bike shops set up payment plans or you can finance your bike through partnerships between a bike shop and a bank. The simple fact is that you don't have to spend several thousand dollars to buy a good, quality bike. Your first bike should be one that you're comfortable with and one that you will enjoy riding and possibly racing on in the future. You can upgrade down the road if you choose to but for just starting out, it's really all about going out, having fun on the bike and being comfortable at the same time. If you purchase a bike that is not fitted correctly to you or one that puts you in an uncomfortable position you won't go out to ride and won't reap the positive benefits that cycling can bring.